A brief history of plantains and how to enjoy the sweet and savory sides of this versatile fruit

Google is not your friend when searching for "authentic" plantain recipes and reliable information. But your retired Spanish-teacher mom and Colombian exchange sister definitely rank at the top of the helpful list. As well as a host of recently and not-so-recently published cookbooks showcasing cuisines where plantains are a staple: the Caribbean, Latin America and West Africa.

According to a timeline at Encyclopedia.com (arkansasonline.com/531plantainhistory), plantains originated in Southeast Asia -- primarily Papua New Guinea and Malaysia -- and made their way first to Madagascar around the sixth century, then to the Canary Islands around the 14th century. And on to the Caribbean and Latin America, where the evergreen herb flourished in the tropical climate and became a staple starch. Most food historians credit colonization and the slave trade with introducing plantains and bananas to the New World, but the article at encyclopedia.com notes there is evidence to suggest their introduction predates Columbus' arrival in 1492.

Much like how plantains look like oversized bananas (and botanically they are) and could easily be confused for one another, the internet (I'm looking at you, Google) tends to treat the words interchangeably. But don't be fooled. These are very different fruits with very different needs.

But "banana" and "plantain" aren't the only words one might find when looking for Latin American and Caribbean plantain recipes: bananas are called bananas, but also el guineo or guineos. Plantains are also known by a variety of names depending on the region and ripeness: plátanos, amarillos.

Plantains, whether firm and green or soft and blackened, need to be cooked before eating. Their high starch content (even after those starches have mostly converted to sugars) means raw plantain can be difficult to digest, along the same lines as potatoes or winter squash.

Bananas, on the other hand, are delicious eaten right out of hand. Just peel and eat when they reach your preferred shade of yellow.

Plantains in varying stages of ripeness (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant) Speaking of shades of yellow (and green and brown and black), plantains, much like bananas, change color as they ripen. Unlike bananas, plantains only get better the more they ripen. They start out firm and grassy green and, if given enough time, will eventually ripen and soften until deep, dark chocolate black. They can be enjoyed at every stage in between.

Firm, green plantains make excellent chips, tostones and jibaritos (a delicious Puerto Rican sandwich where planks of fried green plantain stand in for the bread. I tried, but could not do jibarito justice in my home kitchen, so your best bet for enjoying one is to find a Puerto Rican restaurant or take a trip to Chicago, where they are a specialty. For more about Chicago and jibaritos, see arkansasonline.com/531jibarito.)

In "Simply West African: Easy, Joyful Recipes for Every Kitchen" by Pierre Thiam with Lisa Katayama, firm yellow plantains along with cassava are used to make fufu.

Diana Delgado, my Colombian sister, tells me most people she knows prefer to cook plátanos simply: Wait until they are ripe, peel, cut into chunks and fry them. However, at a recent cooking class she took, the instructor simmered them in water before frying in a moderately hot skillet.

Rahanna Bissert Martinez's recipe for Garlic Pan-Fried Plantains in her new cookbook "Flavor+Us: Cooking for Everyone" was the spark of inspiration for this story. (It's just sheer dumb luck that Monday is World Plantain Day.)

Until trying Martinez's recipe, the only fried plantains I'd eaten were green: tostones, kpekere, and plantain chips. Maduros -- fried sweet plantains -- were revelation. In West Africa, fried sweet plantains may be called kelewele, dodo, or alloco, depending on the country.

Garlic Pan-Fried Plantains

Heat a large skillet over medium heat, then add the oil and garlic. Cook, stirring almost constantly, until the garlic is lightly browned. Remove garlic from the pan, setting it aside in a small bowl.

Add the butter to the hot skillet; reduce heat to medium-low. Once the butter is melted, working in batches as to not crowd the pan, fry the plantains for 3 to 5 minutes on each side, or until soft and browned. Transfer fried plantains to a serving plate or platter and sprinkle with a little salt. Repeat with the remaining plantains, sprinkling with salt and then the garlic and parsley.

Serve hot.

Makes 2 to 4 servings.

Recipe adapted from "Flavor+Us: Cooking for Everyone" by Rahanna Bissert Martinez

Maduros

Peel the plantains and cut on the diagonal into ¾-inch thick slices.

Line a plate with paper towels. Fill a large (10- or 12-inch) cast-iron skillet with about 1 inch of oil. You want enough oil to just cover the plantains (amarillos). Heat oil to 350 degrees over medium heat. (A tiny piece of plantain will sizzle.)

Add the amarillos to the oil and fry on one side for 3 to 5 minutes or until the edges start to brown. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, flip and fry for 2 to 3 minutes more. Transfer to the paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Season with salt while hot. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Recipe from "Diasporican: A Puerto Rican Cookbook" by Illyanna Maisonet

Mashed sweet plantains can be as fiery or mild as you like, making them a versatile side dish made with just four ingredients.

Mashed Sweet Plantains

In a medium pot, combine the plantains and enough water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium and simmer until plantains are tender when pierced with a fork, about 10 minutes. Drain well.

Return plantains to the pot and cook over low heat, allowing any remaining moisture to evaporate, for about 1 minute. Gradually add the oil, 1 tablespoon at a time, while mashing the plantains with a wooden spoon. Add the chile (if using) and stir. Remove from heat and stir in the salt. Serve immediately.

Makes about 4 servings.

Recipe adapted from "Simply West African: Easy, Joyful Recipes for Every Kitchen" by Pierre Thiam with Lisa Katayama

Plantain and Corn Fritters With Sriracha Mayo (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant) These fritters combine flavors from across the globe -- corn, turmeric, Sriracha, plantain, mayonnaise, feta cheese, citrus -- for a flavor-packed snack or side dish.

Plantain and Corn Fritters With Sriracha Mayo

Place the corn in the bowl of a food processor and let it defrost while you prepare the plantain.

Bring a kettle of water to a boil. Cut the plantain crosswise into thirds. Place pieces in a saucepan and cover with boiling water. Cook over medium heat until the plantain is very soft, about 15 minutes. It will puff and swell out of the cut ends. Drain well. Remove the skin (careful! it will be hot) and add the pieces to the food processor along with the green onion, garlic, turmeric, cayenne, allspice and salt. Pulse to combine and roughly chop the corn -- the mixture should have some texture.

Scrape the mixture into a mixing bowl and add the flour and eggs. Stir until well combined and then fold in the feta.

Heat oven to 400 degrees and have a baking sheet ready.

Heat just enough oil to coat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, scoop 1/3-cupfuls of batter into the skillet and spread slightly. (I was able to fit 4 fritters in a 12-inch skillet.) Cook 2 to 3 minutes; carefully flip and cook 2 to 3 minutes on second side, or until golden brown. Transfer fritters to the baking sheet. After all of the fritters have been browned in the skillet, transfer the baking sheet to the oven for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, stir together the mayonnaise and sour cream. Swirl in a drizzle of sriracha. Serve fritters with a squeeze of lime and with the sriracha mayo for dipping.

Makes 8 to 10 fritters.

Recipe adapted from "Mezcla: Recipes to Excite" by Ixta Belfrage

Plantain Croquettes With Beans or Cheese (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant) These croquettes are an edible study in the appeal of sweet+savory with sweet, fruity plantain encasing a savory filling of refried beans or melted cheese. We especially liked these croquettes topped with tart and spicy salsa verde.

Plantain Croquettes With Beans or Cheese

Cut the tips off each end of the plantains and then cut each plantain in half. Do not peel. Cook the plantains in boiling water until the flesh bursts out of the ends, about 10 minutes. Drain and let cool. Once cool enough to handle, remove the peels and mash the flesh into a puree. Add salt and sugar, to taste.

Rub your palms with a little oil, then take a bit of plantain (about 2 tablespoons) and flatten it between your palms into a patty. Add a spoonful of beans or a ¾-inch cube of cheese and then fold the plantain around the beans or cheese to encase completely, shaping it into an oblong croquette.

Dredge the shaped croquettes in flour.

Fill a deep skillet or Dutch oven with a couple of inches of oil and heat to about 350 degrees. (If you don't have a deep frying thermometer, an easy way to tell when your oil is hot enough is to add a couple of unpopped kernels of popcorn to your pot with the oil. Popcorn pops at 355 degrees, so when the corn pops, your oil is ready for frying.)

Working in batches, carefully add the croquettes to the hot oil and fry, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels or a wire rack.

Serve hot with heavy cream and chile sauce or salsa for dipping.

Makes about 20 croquettes.

Recipe adapted from "The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook" by Margarita Carrillo Arronte

Plantains Stewed in Sugar Syrup (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant) Of all the ways we've eaten sweet plantains, this may be our favorite. The combination of sweet, custardy plantain, spices -- cinnamon, allspice and a hint of chile -- and sugar is divine. (Hint: If you love bananas foster, give this recipe a try.)

In her book, "Spice Kitchen: Healthy Latin and Caribbean Cuisine" Ariel Fox (Season 18 winner of Hell's Kitchen) describes this dish as "a Colombian favorite."

Plantains Stewed in Sugar Syrup

(Plátanos Calados)

Cut each end off of each plantain and then score the skin (but not the flesh) down the length of two sides. Gently peel away the skin. Cut each peeled plantain in half lengthwise and then cut each half in half crosswise to make four pieces.

In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, nutmeg, allspice, coconut oil, cinnamon stick, ancho powder and 1 cup water. Stir to moisten sugar and then bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to a simmer and add the plantain pieces. Cover and simmer 15 to 20 minutes or until plantains are tender, but not falling apart (ours got a little too tender).

Using a slotted spoon, remove the plantains from the syrup. Place them cut-side up on a baking sheet. Continue simmering the syrup for 5 minutes more or until reduced and slightly thickened. Remove from heat.

Heat the broiler to high. Broil the plantains for 2 to 5 minutes or until tops are caramelized and the edges are charred.

Serve the plantains in the reserved syrup, topped with coconut sorbet or vanilla ice cream if desired.

Makes 4 servings.

Recipe adapted from "Spice Kitchen: Healthy Latin and Caribbean Cuisine" by Ariel Fox

Print Headline: Plantain perfection

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