Harrisburg native’s cookbook inducted into James Beard Foundation’s hall of fame

Harrisburg native Joe Randall wrote a cookbook in 1998 that was recognized Saturday by the James Beard Foundation in Chicago. His cookbook "A Taste of Heritage: The New African-American Cuisine" was entered in the foundation's cookbook hall of fame.

In some ways, Joe Randall wonders what took so long.

But the Harrisburg native and chef, who in 1998 wrote "A Taste of Heritage: The New African-American Cuisine" isn't going to pass on his most recent accolade.

Last night in Chicago, Randall, 76, and his 334-page book detailing prominent Black chefs was inducted into the James Beard Cookbook Hall of Fame as part of the foundation's annual media awards. The Savannah, Ga. resident attended the ceremony with his daughter, Cari P. Randall.

"Well, I was surprised, but at the same time it was one of those ‘it's about time things,’" he said. "I figured they forgot about me."

Later on Facebook he posted: "This is a full circle moment for me and I am truly honored."

The James Beard Awards are considered the most prestigious in the American restaurant industry in dozens of categories including top restaurants and chefs. Some liken them to the Oscars.

The foundation says for the hall of fame it recognizes books "that have significantly influenced the way we think about food and honored authors who possess an exceptional ability to communicate their gastronomic vision via the printed page."

Randall's book explores African-American cuisine from modern techniques to traditional ‘heirloom’ dishes. While many of the nearly 300 recipes belong to Randall, he profiled a dozen other prominent African-American chefs and included their recipes.

Among those profiled are Clifton Williams, former executive chef at The Safari Club in Las Vegas; Edna Lewis, a cookbook author and chef from Atlanta; John Harrison, former executive chef at the Old Original Bookbinders Restaurant in Philadelphia; and Patrick Yves Pierre-Jerome, former executive chef at the Cavalier Cafe in Clifton, N.J.

Joe Randall's "A Taste of Heritage: The New African-American Cuisine" cookbook was honored by the James Beard Foundation on June 3 in Chicago. Randall is a Harrisburg native and wrote the book in 1998.

Along with such traditional favorites as hoppin’ John, black-eyed pea soup and corn fritters, Randall injected contemporary dishes like baby romaine with spicy fried oysters with Caesar dressing, oven-roasted garlic rosemary chicken with cornbread dressing and giblet gravy and Southern gingerbread with bourbon cream.

He said he decided to write the book while organizing Black chefs through the American Culinary Federation to help give them a voice. He also founded The Taste of Heritage Foundation in 1993, dedicated to promoting African-American cuisine and chefs.

Through annual dinners, he spotlighted some of the country's top chefs and raised scholarship money for aspiring chefs. The book grew out of a revelation African-American cuisine was experiencing a revolution.

"At that time I had been cooking since 1962, and hadn't seen a Black chef on the cover of a cookbook," Randall said.

The graduate of William Penn High School got his start at the Hotel Harrisburger, where he apprenticed under Robert W. Lee, Harrisburg's first African-American executive chef.

After the Harrisburger closed in the late 1960s, Randall worked at the Penn Harris Hotel under Frank Castelli. His career led to moves to Buffalo, N.Y., Seattle, and then California where he met his wife,Barbara, and helped the owners of Georgia, a well-known African-American restaurant develop recipes and a menu.

He eventually ended up in Savannah where he operated a cooking school for about 20 years. Today, Randall is a consultant for Good Times Jazz Bar & Restaurant in Savannah.

The cookbook is still available to purchase by emailing Randall at [email protected].

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