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Aug 16, 2023

Make the humble cauliflower the star with a luxuriously spiced peanut puree

The humble cauliflower is transformed into the star with this luxuriously spiced peanut puree and fragrant suya spices. I created this dish for my plant-based cookery class to impress and it delivers every time.

Serves 4 cauliflower 1 large head (about 800g), leaves and stalk removedcherry tomatoes 300g, halvedred romano or bell pepper 1, stem and seeds removed, roughly choppedred onion ½ small, peeled and halvedrapeseed, groundnut or neutral vegetable oil 1 tbsp, plus extra for drizzling

For the spiced peanut puree blanched peanuts 180g, or 100g natural, unsweetened peanut butterred onion ½ small, peeled and roughly choppedgarlic 4 cloves, peeled and roughly choppedginger 5cm piece, peeled and roughly choppedsuya spice blend 2 tbsp (see recipe below)smoked paprika 1 tsp

For the suya spice blend (makes about 150g) unsalted roasted peanuts 100gselim pepper 10 pods (optional but wonderful)ground ginger 5 tbspgarlic granules 2 tbsponion granules 2 tbspcayenne pepper 1 tbsp (or ½ tbsp for less heat)fine sea salt 1 tsppaprika 1 tbsp (optional)

To serve fresh coriander small handful, choppedsuya spice blend 1 tsp (see above)

To make the suya spice blend, place the nuts in a coffee or spice grinder and blitz in 1-second short bursts to a fine powder. Be careful not to grind for too long as the nuts will quickly turn into peanut butter.

Transfer the nuts to a piece of muslin or a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out as much oil as possible, until you are left with a cookie dough-like texture. Tip into a bowl and break into fine crumbs using a fork.

Add all the spices and seasonings to the bowl with the peanuts and mix well. Store in an airtight container or glass jar away from direct sunlight for up to 3 months. The spice blend can also be mixed into tomato sauces, vegetable and bean dips, or sprinkled on to salads and roasts. The possibilities are endless and wonderful.

To make the spiced peanut puree, place a flameproof casserole over a medium heat and pour in the peanuts. Swirl the nuts around a few times, using a wooden spoon, to avoid burning. Roast until golden, then remove from the pan to cool. Reserve 2 tablespoons (about 30g) of the roasted peanuts and place the rest in a food processor with the other puree ingredients. Add 60ml water and blend, scraping down the sides now and again. Add more water, a tablespoon at a time, to loosen the paste, if needed, until spreadable but with some texture. Season with ½ teaspoon fine sea salt and reserve 2 heaped tablespoons of the puree for later.

Preheat the oven to 200C fan/gas mark 7.

Carve a triangle into the stalk of the cauliflower and place it in the casserole. Spread the puree over the whole surface, covering it in a thick coating. Turn the cauliflower over, season the cavity and spoon some puree inside. Place the cauliflower bottom-side down and tuck the cherry tomatoes, red pepper and onion around the cauliflower. Brush or drizzle all the vegetables, including the cauliflower, with the oil and pour 60ml water around the sides. Cover with a lid and roast in the middle of the oven for 30 minutes, then remove the lid and roast for another 30 minutes, until beautifully dark and golden, and you can pierce a knife into the cauliflower with little resistance. Set aside while you prepare the sauce.

Place the roasted pepper, cherry tomatoes and onion in a food processor with the reserved peanut puree and blend until smooth. Drizzle with a little oil and season with a pinch of fine sea salt and black pepper.

Spoon the tomato and spiced peanut puree on to a warm serving plate and place the cauliflower on top. Chop the reserved roasted peanuts, scatter them over the top with the chopped coriander and sprinkle over the 1 teaspoon suya spice blend. Serve as a main dish or an accompaniment to your favourite salad, roast or grains.

Tips Although I love roasting a whole cauliflower, you could also break the cauliflower into florets or cut it into steaks and spread them with the puree before roasting uncovered for 30-40 minutes.

If you have peanut powder, you can use the equivalent quantity for the suya spice blend. Simply toast the powder in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for a few minutes, stirring continuously, until slightly darker golden in colour.

While I love sharing recipes that are easily adaptable to suit varying diets, geographical locations and availability, I must tell you that for the true essence of suya, I consider ginger to be a very important spice.

You can replace peanuts with almonds or other nuts for those with tree nut allergies, or use toasted sesame seeds or tahini paste to achieve that rich, nutty flavour suya is known for.

From Africana: Treasured Recipes and Stories From Across the Continent by Lerato Umah-Shaylor (HQ, £22)

Serves 4 cauliflower cherry tomatoes red romano or bell pepper red onion rapeseed, groundnut or neutral vegetable oil For the spiced peanut puree blanched peanuts red onion garlic ginger suya spice blend smoked paprika For the suya spice blend (makes about 150g) unsalted roasted peanuts selim pepper ground ginger garlic granules onion granules cayenne pepper fine sea salt paprika To serve fresh coriander suya spice blend Tips